Hidden in the Shadows

Often forgot about, Uraguay lays smashed between Brazil and Argentina, two of South America's leading countries. Without the appeal of the Brazilian beaches or the dreamy Argentine culture, Uraguay is often forgotten about. We were anxious to enter Uraguay, fleeing the higher standard of living in Brazil (ie. $5/gal for gas) and get away from the developed beaches. We discovered quiet beach towns full of quaint cottages along the northern coast. Outside of the high season, it seemed we had everything to ourselves, strolling through empty sandy lanes and getting to know the locals. Lots of natural areas and beautiful dunes compose a more rugged coastline. It would be an ideal spot to rent a cottage to spend the summer.

One excursion led us to an old farmer's land who charges a modest fee to visit an unusual ombu forest that stretches across his property. These grand trees typically are solitary spreading their grand limbs over the vast pampas. However, this site is unique in having a forest that stretches for 20 km, but only grows several meters deep. After a ride out to the forest on his rickety old tractor, he accompanied us down a path in the shade of the mighty ombus, some of which are said to be more than 600 years old.